El Hechizo, best restaurant in Tulum

Simple decoration, the food is what really matters

Simple decoration, the food is what really matters


El Hechizo es the best and most sophisticated restaurant in Tulum. Its chef and owner, Stefan Schober is a highly professional chef, with a long experience as chef of the Ritz Carlton hotel chain. From Austrian parents, the mexican Schober met her wife when she was in charge of the Ritz Carlton Singapore patisserie. Ying-Hui Thai Low (Hui) now is the pastry chef of El Hechizo, and the responsible of the best dessert I ever had (not having sweet teeth): Dark Chocolate Fondant Torte with Coconut IceCream and Passion Fruit Coulis.

After going through the menu, we were too tempted by what we found in the upper section, we had two appetizers and a main. The home made tagliatelli with black truffle oil was just perfect. The truffle flavor densely but finely integrated in a creamy sauce. The sea scallops with prosciutto envoltini were also great, specially the scallops, really fresh and with the right texture (the tricky part of cooking scallops).

Our pick of main was the lobster tail on potato gnocchi, another great dish. Amazingly, we ended up fighting for the perfect gnocchi instead of the lobster mini-chops.

The wine list was disappointing, just 6-7 reds, four of them Chilean. As Stefan explained (he presents and explains the menu to every table), it is really tough to have and properly maintain wines in Tulum. It is very usually to find rotten wines even at the best restaurants, because of the heat. So Stefan’s decision to stick to the very few rotating wines he knows are well preserved may seem the right one. Maybe you should bring your own grand vin (there is a good La Europea wine store at Playa del Carmen, 40 miles away) to try to match the quality of the perfect food.

El Tábano restaurant, creative menu, based on traditional mexican cuisine

Laid back El Tábano restaurante at the Tulum beach strip

Laid back El Tábano restaurante at the Tulum beach strip


El Tábano is one of the restaurants always mentioned by travelers in Tulum. The place has a reputation of good food since 2003, one of the oldest restaurants on the beach strip. El Tábano owners, Gerardo de la Vega (better known as “PAF”) and Laura are also the creators of the Tulum Food Festival, an event happening every early December and featuring wine and food tastings, cooking workshops and special prix fixe menus at the participating restaurants (for just about US$ 50, including wine matching for every course).

The food is based on traditional mexican ingredientes and recipes, including mole, pipián and spicy hot habanero chile. Fish and see food made the base of the menu, also featuring some chicken and filled chiles. But these ancient ingredients and recipes are given a modern touch to present more creative dishes.

We tasted a fish ceviche as a starter, and we were disappointed: the “modern touch” was adding pineapple to it, and it ended tasting too sweet. No matter how much habanero chile and red onion we added to it, we had to let it go.

But the main courses were amazing. We had chile ancho (a wide red dried mildly spicy chile) filled with fish, gratinated with cheese. It was a great combination of flavors. We also had shrimp in habanero chile butter, it was also excellent, and not too spicy despite of the habanero (the chile flavor was integrated in a fine way through the butter). It was too hot to order the place’s specialty: jalapeño chile filled with pork.

The list of wine is starred by mexican labels, most of them marry well the mexican flavors of the food. There are a few spanish alternatives in case you do not want to go local (what I do not recommend, these mexican wines are worth trying).

The coffee was also excellent, but the whisky list was poor (justs JW Red Label and Dewar’s).

The service was impecable, and warm. It is a cash only restaurant.

All in all, a restaurant you must pay a visit. El Tábano is located at the beach strip, on the Boca Paila road, km 7, about 3 miles away to the right when you get to the beach road. The restaurant is on the jungle side of the road.

Rosa del Viento, a top boutique hotel, restaurant and beach club (for a fraction of its value!)


I was recommended Rosa del Viento last year in one of my express visits to Tulum, but for one reason or the other I had never had enough time to stop by. What a regret!

I always thought hotels and restaurants are more about people than anything else. Actually, success with every business, sport or hobby is always about passionate people. I was on the plane today reading June’s Wired edition (back from Tulum to Mexico City) while accidentally stumbled upon by an article about the next generation of social networks. The journalist was saying that in order to pick the winner you need to watch how obsessed are the founders about the issue they want to “solve” more than anything else. And this is what I’ve found at Rosa del Viento: obsession with the Tulum’s finest lifestyle, meaning top food, style and relax at a perfect beach.

Let’s start with the best: people! Massimo, Elisa and the rest of the crew of Rosa del Viento make the big difference. From the Mediterranean Sicily, Massimo has a family tradition and obsession for good food. You just need to spend five minutes close to the kitchen watching Massimo taking care of every detail, and eventually sending back to the oven (or trash) one dish every now and then because his “Nonna” or “Mamma” would not be proud of it. Elisa provides the nice PR touch, and takes care of patrons. She is clearly the macro manager of Massimo’s up-to-the-detail micro-macromanagement. Perfect matching.

Food is just great. Simple, as the best of Italian cuisine, it is all about good quality ingredients, love and artsy touch. The wood oven is the key piece of Rosa del Viento’s cuisine. Freshly made Italian pizzas and whole fishes are baked alike at the oven. The Napolitan pizza I had three days in a row only has a matching peer in Napoli. The whole “boquinete” or “mero” fishes slowly cooked on the oven can create addiction. They also have amazingly fresh pasta, just made of Italian imported flour to keep the original flavor (Lobster ravioli or Seafood tagliatelli were my favorites). The wine list is one of the best at the Tulum beach, a decent line-up of Italians (usually very pricey in Mexico- same as in New York City) and a greatly balanced offer of Argentines Malbecs and Torronteses for less than $50. I had Aguijón de Abeja Torrontés (Salta, Northern Argentina) to marry the Ceviche, and a powerful Bianchi Particular (Cabernet Blend from San Rafael, south Mendoza) to tame the anchovies of the Napolitan pizza. Rosa del Viento also boasts typical mexican beach staples: fish tacos and ceviche. They are both fresh and tasty. The fish tacos (had ‘em three times!) have an amazing taste of chipotle chili’s.

Then, there’s the great beach club and an the white sand beach. Best beach south of Tulum. Pristine powder white sand, perfect turquoise sea, and almost no rocks under your feet, just a comfy sand bed. A group of stoic palm trees to give you the shade you want, beach chairs and beds, and attentive waiters to see when your Victoria beer has got warm to replace it by a new one…

The hotel has 15 rooms, most of them with sea view. They are all air-conditioned and very comfortable, and extremely clean (not always the rule in some of the Tulum eco-chic hotels). Rosa del Viento is a place suitable for top models, trendy tourists, the average family, honeymooners, couples with kids, retirees, and mostly everybody other than the hordes of cheap-all-inclusive individuals looking for inexpensive beer. While we were there the crowd included top models, photographers and other celebrities, couples from USA, Canada and Europe, hipsters from Mexico city and families with kids and dogs from Tulum and Playa del Carmen. Big bias on New Yorkers and Californians.

The hotel and restaurant have another great advantage: they are really low cost compared to the value you get. Hotel rooms cost from US$ 150 to US$ 250 in top season, a fraction of the cost in similar places in Tulum. Food at the restaurant is also very reasonably priced, including the wines and liquors (the latter extremely inexpensive – good drinks from US$ 6).

Rosa del Viento will soon be spotted by the New York mainstream media as already happened with Be Tulum, Coqui Coqui and Hartwood, and become a favorite of the fashion and trendy crowds.

You can contact Rosa del Viento at : +52 (984)-164-9903
Email: rosadelviento@gmail.com

How to get to Rosa del Viento? If you drive from Cancún or Playa del Carmen, when you get to Tulum, before getting into town, turn left at the Boca Paila road (at the crossroad of the San Francisco supermarket), once you get to the beach crossroad (Adonis hotel) turn right and drive 6 kilometers on the beach road, you will see the Rosa del Viento sign on your left.

The Hartwood: review after the fourth visit


The Hartwood maintains its quality and unique atmosphere after its first years of operations. In my last visit 3 weeks ago, despite heavy tropical rains, the restaurant was open and its staff as smiley as ever.

And the crowd was always the same, locals from the hotel industry, tourists from Coqui Coqui hotel across the beach road and Newyorkers following Eric Werner’s trail from Brooklyn.

I had the usual watermelon & rum refreshing cocktail, that opened my carnivorous appetite to enjoy one of the best pork racks I’ve ever had. The pork is cooked in the wood oven for many hours, with the heat of the ashes left when the oven is turned off in the evenings. It is slowly cooked the whole night, and then served the following day. The meat is coated with agave pencas (the plant of which tequila is made) to prevent it from burning too much, giving it a unique flavor. Married the pork with a powerful and price balanced LA Cetto Nebbiolo, one of the best mexican wines in the mid-priced range.

I’ll be back again this week, I’m lucky enough to be in Tulum again…

New visit to Pequeño Buenos Aires, the Argentine grill in Tulum downtown

pequeño buenos aires grill parrilla tulum restaurant
Unlike many restaurants, Pequeño Buenos Aires is getting better with time. When Ezequiel (the owner) opened the small restaurant 9 years ago, he basically had no competition except for local taquerías and a rotating group of short lived italian pizzerias.

Now the restaurant is much larger, better decorated, has better wine list and above all the quality of the beef is excellent. When in low season you see most of the restaurants empty, Pequeño Buenos Aires always has patrons sipping red wine and enjoying an “asado”. Reason must be that no matter what, Ezequiel is always there taking care of customers or the grill (his passion since he was a child in Bragado, in the Argentine Pampas).

My favorite cut at Pequeño Buenos Aires is “vacío” (flank steak), a pound big and medium rear, married with a powerful Luiggi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition to beef, he offers the other pillar of the Argentine cuisine, home-made ravioli filled with spinach and with a fresh tomato and basil sauce. Prices at Pequeño Buenos aires are much lower than in fancier restaurants at the Tulum beach, and you can have a full protein and good wine feast for a fraction of what it cost in an Argentinian restaurant or a steak house in the US. Two large vacíos enough to feed 4 adults, a bottle of Luiggi Bosca ($55) and some soft drinks plus tip and taxes for about US$ 100, a great deal. But if you do not want to splash with expensive wine and tons of beef, you could have a smaller cut and good wine bottle for two for some US$ 25 each.

Also, due to its strategic location, the sidewalk tables of Pequeño Buenos Aires are the right place see what is going on in Tulum, watching locals and tourists go from shop to shop and bar to bar. Pequeño Buenos Aires is located at Tulum Avenue (town’s main road) at the corner of Beta Sur. Usually no reservation is needed but in high season it can become crowded. Opens daily and is one of the restaurants in downtown that work the latest in the evenings.